Leopard Gecko Care Sheet
Introduction
The Leopard Gecko (Eublepharis macularius) is a very popular and hardy species of gecko native to the deserts of Pakistan, India, and Afghanistan. They are incredibly popular amongst first time reptile keepers as well as seasoned experienced keepers alike due to their docile temperament, ease of care, and low maintenance requirements. They come in a wide range of stunning colours and patterns, thanks to generations of selective breeding in captivity. From vibrant yellows and oranges to bold spots and stripes, their diverse appearances make them visually striking pets. Their hardy nature and manageable size further contribute to their appeal, making them an ideal choice for those new to reptile keeping.
Care sheets are only to be taken as guidelines. Just as with all animals, each reptile will have unique traits and personalities special to the individual animal that may require adaptation in their husbandry and care. The following care sheet will address basic requirements but as the primary caretaker of your pet, we encourage you to take notice of your pet's behaviours and preferences and make adjustments as they grow with you and your family. Please also keep in mind that unlike mammals, most reptiles change their behaviour according to the weather seasons even if you keep them indoors all year round.
We keep leopard geckos in stock at our Toronto store and ship across Canada.
Cheat Sheet
Leopard Gecko
| Common name | Leopard Gecko |
|---|---|
| Scientific name | Eublepharis macularius |
| Natural location | Pakistan, India, and Afghanistan |
| Habitat (wild) | Semi-desert areas; rocky, shrublands and woodlots |
| Captive enclosure | 5-10gal for hatchlings/juveniles, 15-30gal for adults |
| Substrate | Tile, reptile carpet, ZM Repti Chips, sand/clay mixture |
| Temperature tolerance | Cooler: 72-80°F (22-27°C), Nighttime: 65-70°F (18-21°C) |
| Basking temperature | 88-92°F (31-33°C) |
| UVB lighting | Optional. Can be beneficial in small amounts. |
| Humidity | 30-50% |
| Average adult size | 5-7 inches |
| Captive lifespan | 15-20 years |
| Fun fact | All Leopard Geckos can scream when they feel threatened |
Housing
Enclosure: Provide a spacious enclosure with adequate ventilation. Hatchlings and young juveniles do best in smaller enclosures between 5-10 gallons. Adults do best in 15-30 gallon. When choosing your enclosure, it is extremely important to remember that the size of the tank is not nearly as important as your ability to heat and furnish the tank properly. The enclosure should be horizontally arranged for ample floor space, and proper ventilation is essential to avoid humidity buildup. Ensure the gecko can comfortably move and explore in its environment.
Substrate: Choosing the right substrate is critical due to impaction risks, yet no substrate is perfect. Tile and reptile carpet are safest but come with drawbacks. Tile is unnatural and hard, while reptile carpet traps odours and is hard to clean. We recommend low-risk substrates like ZM Repti Chips for normally behaving Leopard Geckos. Avoid loose substrates for geckos under 3 months. Use paper towels initially, transitioning to ZM Repti Chips later. Fine sand is not recommended for juveniles. For an advanced setup, a mix of sand with ZM Excavator clay or Exo Terra Desert Stone offers a natural and functional aesthetic.
Temperature: Maintain a gradient of temperatures within the enclosure, with a hot spot reaching 88-92°F (31-33°C) and a cooler area around 72-80°F (22-27°C) during the day. At night, temperatures can drop to 65-70°F (18-21°C). Juveniles thrive best at more moderate temperatures while adults can withstand larger fluctuations.
Lighting and heating: Leopard Geckos are a nocturnal species and are typically uncomfortable around any bright lights. For this reason, we do not recommend using lighting for this species unless it is an infrared or otherwise dark lighting simply for your own viewing pleasure. UVB lighting is not required but can absolutely provide some benefits when provided in small amounts. Instead of heat lighting, we highly recommend heat pads to provide heat through the ground. Heat pads should cover one side of the terrarium, best positioned underneath the hiding cave where they like to sleep. Infrared radiant heat is also an excellent choice for this species.
Decor: Leopard Geckos will benefit from several hides for comfort and security if you can provide it. One hide can be enough but if you have the space, we recommend at least two hides, one on the warm side and one on the cool side. This allows the gecko to regulate its body temperature by moving between them. When Leopard Geckos are not provided enough humidity during the shedding process, they can lose the tips of their toes and nails. To prevent this, a moist hide is recommended on the cool side of the enclosure. While Leopard Geckos are primarily ground-dwelling, adding low rocks, branches, or plants can help mimic their natural environment. Ensure that all decor is securely placed to prevent injury and avoid sharp or unstable items.
Diet
Feeding: Leopard Geckos are insectivores and should be fed a variety of live insects including crickets, mealworms, roaches, waxworms, silkworms, hornworms, black soldier fly larvae, and superworms. In recent years, several companies have also come out with excellent meal replacement powders that have all the nutrition of live bugs, and most Leopard Geckos can be taught to eat it over time instead of live bugs. This includes Repashy Grub Pie and Pro Bugs Purees. Juvenile Leopard Geckos should be fed daily, while adults typically eat every 2-3 days.
Gut loading: Gut-load insects with nutritious foods before feeding them to your gecko to ensure optimal nutritional value.
Supplementation: Lightly dust insects with calcium powder weekly, especially for younger geckos. A weekly dusting of multi vitamin can also be beneficial. Be careful not to over supplement with vitamin D3.
Water: Provide fresh water daily for your gecko in a shallow, easily accessible dish that allows them to drink safely without the risk of getting stuck.
Health & Maintenance
Hygiene: Leopard Geckos have an uncanny built in habit to designate a bathroom area in their living space, and will often relieve themselves in that spot regularly, making them naturally potty trained. Spot clean your enclosure on a daily basis to prevent bacteria build up and general cleanliness. We recommend a full substrate change once per season, 4 times a year. Wood and plant decor can be washed monthly with hot water and put back into place.
Handling: Leopard Geckos usually respond very well to frequent handling. Young ones will naturally be a little skittish as they are young and spry. As they grow older, they will become more and more calm with their movements. We recommend handling them while seated on the ground and always keep an eye on them when they are out of their enclosure. Never grab or pull a leopard gecko by their tails as they will drop their tails if frightened. All Leopard Geckos have the ability to fully regenerate their lost tails, but it will always grow back looking different from the original tail. Wash your hands before and after handling to prevent the spread of bacteria.
Behavioural observation: Leopard Geckos are nocturnal so that means they will hide and sleep all day and come out to explore at night time. Monitor your gecko's behaviour for signs of illness or stress, such as lethargy, abnormal stool, stuck shed on the toes, sunken eyes, or visible weight loss. Once your leopard gecko reaches adult age, it is common and normal for them to reduce their appetites.
Quarantine: Quarantine any new additions to your reptile collection to prevent the spread of diseases.
Common Questions
Are leopard geckos good for beginners?
Yes, one of the best. They are docile, hardy, low maintenance, and small enough to house easily. That combination is why they are one of the most common first reptiles.
What substrate is safest for a leopard gecko?
No substrate is perfect. Tile and reptile carpet are the safest for impaction risk but have their own drawbacks. We recommend ZM Repti Chips for normally behaving adults, and paper towels for geckos under 3 months.
Do leopard geckos need a heat lamp?
No. They are nocturnal and uncomfortable under bright light. Use a heat pad covering one side of the terrarium, positioned under the hide they sleep in. Infrared radiant heat also works well.
Do leopard geckos grow their tail back?
Yes. Unlike crested geckos, leopard geckos fully regenerate a dropped tail. It will grow back looking different from the original.
How often do leopard geckos need to be fed?
Juveniles daily. Adults every 2 to 3 days. Live insects are standard, though many geckos can be taught to eat meal replacement powders like Repashy Grub Pie.
Why is my leopard gecko losing the tips of its toes?
Usually not enough humidity during shedding. Add a moist hide on the cool side of the enclosure to prevent it.
All Reptiles, all the time.
Leopard geckos in stock now
We carry leopard geckos, along with the substrate, enclosures, heat pads and hides covered in this guide, at 1911 Kennedy Rd. Unit 99 in Toronto. Staff can walk you through a full setup in person.
